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Urine smell removal? |
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soonerjoe 
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Joined: 10/April/2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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 Topic: Urine smell removal?Posted: 10/April/2004 at 12:29am |
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What is the best way to remove urine, I run a cotton bonnet system. Does tm work any better than a bonnet. Can you ever truely get the urine smell out without doing a pad replacement and concrete cleaning.
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Stanley
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Joined: 17/March/2004 Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 9:13am |
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huh how is that possible???? do you really think you'll be able to absorb the pee right from the bottom of the underpad......??
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doug
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Just My opinion Joined: 31/January/2004 Status: Offline Points: 32711 |
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 11:22am |
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What you need is a truckmount that heats up to 2000 degrees and has a Lear Jet blower. What more can I say??? And the best thing is I learned all of this on this board. |
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Steaminpile
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Joined: 04/February/2004 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1155 |
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 11:54am |
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with a water claw and chems you might be able to. but the smell is pretty tough to kill overall without ditching the pad. I've had some success with injections and chemspec's Kill Odor. |
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doug
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 12:34pm |
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I think you really have to have understanding of the chemical composition of urine before thinking a spray and suck is all that is needed. Lets discuss the waterclaw effective on waterextraction to an extenct but for urine I wouldn't bet my paycheck. Lets not forgot about the scrim on the underpad that is the skin applied to allow the installer to install the carpet. If you can't blow threw it you cannot dry it. so you add water alot of chemical and use the water claw first did you flush the urine all out or drive it all over with 10 gallons of water you added? Did you add enough chemicla to get to every where you just drove the new urine you just made with all the water? There is no simple answer to everything and I hope you don't buy a waterclaw just for urine, save the money and go to an odour school. This is just my opinion
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Stanley
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 2:43pm |
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I do needle shots...but what happens when it soaks into the wood????
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Steaminpile
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 3:53pm |
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I guess I need to be less vague whether you bonnet,pad,hwe,,,,,W.H.Y. with urine I wouldn't guarantee anything,without pulling the pad. I was just mentioning a couple things a person might try if the customer doesn't wish to go to that expense but do explain to the custy that without pulling pad etc. that you are more than likely just going to have a temporary solution or just covering up the problem. |
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LilNiteRidrhood
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Joined: 17/March/2004 Location: Antarctica Status: Offline Points: 1257 |
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 4:01pm |
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You have to mimmick the stain itself. Remember that the urine goes from an acid liquid and dries to an alkaline salt. You must break up the salts with an acid rinse, then retrace the urine deposit with a cleaning solution. The two typical procedures use either a bioenzyme or an oxidizer poured onto the area and then waterclawed back out. Like Stanley and Andy said its very possible its actually into the subfloor and pad. If the animal has gone on the same spot numerous times I would include replacing the pad and sealing the floor with a shellac. |
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Stanley
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 4:12pm |
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Sealing the floor...I've used clear silicone....but what happens..when the floor has extreme damage
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doug
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 5:10pm |
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I had a hardwood floor that you could push a butter knife threw. In the basement 2 floor joists had damage affecting 3 to 5" of the joist. The previous owners installed new carpet to sell the house. Then in the spring it started to smell. The affected area of the floor was removed and the joists were sealed and since due to the expense the carpet was reinstalled they were no worried about hte hardwood. After we have treated the wood floor and let it dry we use KILTZ or a similar sealer. |
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Stanley
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 5:16pm |
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So what about wood root???whats the fix in that case....you pull up the carpet and the flooring is black...and joist underneath is black..... I think it's better to tear the whole thing out...call in a contractor and let him do his thing....wood is absorbent and I truly feel you can't seal it completely |
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LilNiteRidrhood
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 5:20pm |
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No doubt You may a few coats of shellac in very extreme circumstances. Usually if you use a bioenzyme it will continue to penetrate whatever it is exposed to as long as it is kept wet. Then the Kilz or Odor Barrier, sometimes 2-3 coats . Edited by LilNiteRidrhood |
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Stanley
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Posted: 10/April/2004 at 5:23pm |
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Do you personally think 2 or 3 coats will do it.......and if your sealing in the bioenzymes they will take a very long time to dry...very long time..actually adding the damage to the already softened wood... Call the contractor |
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soonerjoe
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Joined: 10/April/2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Posted: 11/April/2004 at 12:06am |
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We have quite a few jobs where people just don't clean up after a dog or cat that is not pottie trained...then they want us to come in clean the carpet to like new, w/o any smell....I really am shocked at the conditions some people will live in. I am considering buying a truck mount, but am concerned about training and keeping employees to run it, plus, I don't think the carpets look nearly as good with a TM versus a pad cleaning. I do think that I would have better luck with urine though. How many of you have used both systems, what is your preferences? |
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Stanley wrote:
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