Stanley wrote: huh how is that possible???? do you really think you'll be able to absorb the pee right from the bottom of the underpad......??

What you need is a truckmount that heats up to 2000 degrees and has a Lear Jet blower.  What more can I say??? And the best thing is  I learned all of this on this board.

with a water claw and chems you might be able to.

but the smell is pretty tough to kill overall without ditching the pad.

I've had some success with injections and chemspec's Kill Odor.

I guess I need to be less vague

whether you bonnet,pad,hwe,,,,,W.H.Y.

with urine I wouldn't guarantee anything,without pulling the pad.

I was just mentioning a couple things a person might try if the customer doesn't wish to go to that expense.

but do explain to the custy that without pulling pad etc. that you are more than likely just going to have a temporary solution or just covering up the problem.

You have to mimmick the stain itself.

Remember that the urine goes from an acid liquid  and dries to an alkaline salt.

You must break up the salts with an acid rinse, then retrace the urine deposit with a cleaning solution. The two typical procedures use either a bioenzyme or an oxidizer poured onto the area and then waterclawed back out. Like Stanley and Andy said its very possible its actually into the subfloor and pad. If the animal has gone on the same spot numerous times I would include replacing the pad and sealing the floor with a shellac.

Stanley wrote: Sealing the floor...I've used clear silicone....but what happens..when the floor has extreme damage

I had  a hardwood floor that you could push a butter knife threw.  In the basement 2 floor joists had damage affecting 3 to 5" of the joist.  The previous owners installed new carpet  to sell the house.  Then in the spring it started to smell.  The affected area of the floor was removed and the joists were sealed and since due to the expense the carpet was reinstalled they were no worried about hte hardwood.  After we have treated the wood floor and let it dry we use KILTZ or a similar sealer.

So what about wood root???whats the fix in that case....you pull up the carpet and the flooring is black...and joist underneath is black.....

I think it's better to tear the whole thing out...call in a contractor and let him do his thing....wood is absorbent and I truly feel you can't seal it completely

No doubt You may a few coats of shellac in very extreme circumstances.

Usually if you use a bioenzyme  it will   continue to penetrate whatever it is exposed to as long as it is kept wet. Then the Kilz or Odor Barrier, sometimes 2-3 coats .

Do you personally think 2 or 3 coats will do it.......and if your sealing in the bioenzymes they will take a very long time to dry...very long time..actually adding the damage to the already softened wood...

Call the contractor

We have quite a few jobs where people just don't clean up after a dog or cat that is not pottie trained...then they want us to come in clean the carpet to like new, w/o any smell....I really am shocked at the conditions some people will live in. 

I am considering buying a truck mount, but am concerned about training and keeping employees to run it, plus, I don't think the carpets look nearly as good with a TM versus a pad cleaning.  I do think that I would have better luck with urine though.

How many of you have used both systems, what is your preferences?

ALL THIS TALK ABOUT PISS, IS PISSING ME OFF...YOU ARE ALL LOOKING FOR SOME WONDER CHEMICAL TO GET URINE SMELL OUT FOR GOOD AND IT IS SITTING RIGHT IN YOUR FRIDGE OR KITCHEN CUBBARD. LADIES AND GENTS IT'S CALLED

     V I N E G A R

YOU CAN DILUTE IT OR USE PURE, JUST SPRAY ON AND LET DRY ON ITS OWN, FOR FRESH URINE BLOT THE URINE FIRST THEN SPRAY. TRUST ME .........IT WORKS.

                               NIGHTRIDER

Doug........how dare you question if it should be WHITE or BROWN vinegar.........YOU DARN RACIST HONKEY.. GEEEEEEEEEEZ

                    NIGHTRIDER

Not that I know of.........what would the difference be. I have never used brown, but would like to know the difference.

                           NIGHTRIDER

Yes Nightrider you can use vinegar but to offer even more assurance use Acidic Acid it is in many coffee remover and anti browning products. Or you can purchase it in the raw form.

For even more assurance and to feel you are getting to the back of the unerdpad and floor, soak it well and remove with the WATER CLAW.

Those who own one of these Claws will tell you there is Nothing I mean Nothing designed better to extract deep down and effectively than this claw.

Don't forget the chips, salt and gravy when you are down there.

Oh yeah

Here are the tools to make you a Professional Urineologist and make serious money + satisfy your clients.

One of these four items + BadBoy = customer satifaction & profit for you.

Stanley..........in your case if you want to get the smell of urine out of your house.............just change your underwear, and use some of that carpet cleaning TIDE .

                       NIGHTRIDER       WHERE'S PADMAN

Right nere DarkMan, reading all these pissy posts..LOL

What you need to do is come into a urine soaked house and pee over the pet stains, mark your territory man, then you find the human piss easier to deal with.

         THEN PUT A LAMP OVER IT

                  NIGHTRIDER

soonerjoe

mailto:sales@kleenkuip.com?subject=Please send me a Water Claw Video - Use this email to request a Water Claw video. We'd be happy to send you one providing you send us your mailing address.

for Kel

I have great success with urine smell by using pet odor enzymes injected into the source. Pet stores have the big scringes for cheap.

The smell lingers because the urine creates bacteria, the enzymes kill the bacteria and the smell, adding a odor counteractant after the enzyme injections (sprayed on the carpet and brushed in) does the trick every time.

I charge $10SFT for this enzyme injections and custy will pay to get this smell out.

You must remove the source of the odor! (the pad). No matter what the customer tells you....you must assume Fee Fee has urinated more than once on the carpet which means it has soaked to the pad. It must be replaced.

I agree John...the enzymes work well to digest the bacteria...but if you miss a spot of soaking that pad...which usually has the thin layer of plastic type material on the face...which prevents the urine from being extracted thru it...then you must reomve and replace it.

If there is no pad then your metod works fine. just remember you must remove the source of the odor.

Febreez is not an oxidizer.

The PURT you speak of is probably similar to OSR by Pro's Choice. Try this link

http://www.proschoice.com/Product_Catalog/Odor_Control/odor_control.html - www.proschoice.com/Product_Catalog/Odor_Control/odor_control .html

                              See pet odour removal