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Portable Needs More Extraction |
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Dirty Ninja 
Newbie 
Joined: 17/August/2008 Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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 Posted: 18/August/2008 at 2:20pm |
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I hear ya. I'm down upholstery training $$$ too. Thanks for some tips.
Ken, soooo that's what those other buttons do on the Ninja, more vacs. lol.  I will try 2" hose and adapters, and check out some more agitation machines. Anything for stairs? I guess hands and knees and scrub pads.  I do a lot of olefin berbers and I think water goes right to the pad and have a hard time getting it back. Longer pile seems to get better return. I think I will get it tested though, cause it should feel like it is sucking more. Anyone hear about notching your wand to let some air flow through to increase water lift? Thanks again. Wife is yelling, I better go. She is half my size but knows where I sleep.  |
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Refined
Groupie 
Joined: 10/August/2008 Location: Charlestown, NH Status: Offline Points: 74 |
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Posted: 04/September/2008 at 10:59pm |
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for agitation I use a cimex. Prespray i use is Powdered Power Prespray (magic wand)
As far as lift, I have only ever used a Mytee. Works great.
Harsh chemicals are rarely better. I use all eco friendly chems and i clean circles around anyone in my area. I am often going behind them a month or so later to clean up their messes.
Send me a message, if you need any more details.
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-Refined Carpet Cleaning
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Mr. Slide
Carpet Cleaning Specialist 
Joined: 16/May/2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 979 |
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Posted: 04/September/2008 at 11:47pm |
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Go to the "Glide" section, and read about "SLIDES" they will help you a lot!
Cheers, AL
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http://qcsliders.com
!!!Check this out!!! Put a Slide Not a Glide on your Wand, and do a better job! |
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John L
Carpet Cleaning Guru 
Joined: 29/November/2004 Location: I'm Right Here! Status: Offline Points: 4013 |
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Posted: 23/September/2008 at 7:24am |
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Keep them filters clear.. A few way to get more umf for your porty:
Add a booster and 1 more Ametek lamb vac.. Use 3 stage.. And the 2" hose for longer hose runs.. At 25' you can get great drytimes with 1.5".. And maybe slower drystokes..
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BigDCleans
Newbie
Joined: 10/October/2008 Status: Offline Points: 1 |
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Posted: 10/October/2008 at 10:56am |
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Have you tried using a Chemical rinse? Most soaps lower the PH to break up grease. Using an acidic rinse to neutralize the PH means less water down on the return.
Also I would lose the heater, check up on it but I understand the soap works better with heat because the molecules expand and can capture more oils, thus creating a better clean. However I believe the improvement is minimal until you hit temperatures very near steam. I get the hottest water I can to start, prespray with the proper soap (Olefin can be tricky without the right soap, remember its plastic) then agitate with a buffer if needed. Mix a rinse and slow down the stroke, water needs time to move. |
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John L
Carpet Cleaning Guru
Joined: 29/November/2004 Location: I'm Right Here! Status: Offline Points: 4013 |
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Posted: 10/October/2008 at 11:26am |
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Good point BigD on the rinsing stage.. I always use a rinsing agent emulsifier or acid depending on the situation..
When a carpet fiber is rinsed using plain water, the calcium / magnesium particles (present in the water) cause the detergent molecules to drop the soils they have emulsified. These detergent molecules then start emulsifying the calcium/magnesium particles. The soils redeposit back into the carpet fiber which causes resoiling.
When a rinsing agent is used. The chelating agents hide the calcium/magnesium particles from the detergent molecules. The detergent molecules continue holding onto the soils they have emulsified. This enables them to more thoroughly be rinsed from the carpet fiber. Edited by John L - 10/October/2008 at 11:27am |
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duckcountry
Master Carpet Cleaner 
Joined: 29/October/2005 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 1082 |
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Posted: 10/October/2008 at 2:24pm |
Here, Here! I second that. |
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Are you in a high paying business or are you just a self employed low paid grunt who thinks this business provides dignity?
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duckcountry
Master Carpet Cleaner
Joined: 29/October/2005 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 1082 |
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Posted: 10/October/2008 at 2:44pm |
Keep the porty and buy a water claw for it. Keep it for the right jobs and charge more for those. Only use on the areas requiring it and only if the customer pays some good bucks for it. Shampoo furniture with a dry foam shampoo and extract with a good wet/dry vac. Use air movers to speed drying. Do the furniture first, then the carpet to allow the furniture the maximum time to dry with air movers. Use something like butcher paper when placing the cushions on the furniture to block fabric-to-fabric contact. A canvas tarp serves as a good service for doing you furniture work, placing the furniture on it and working in the room where the furniture is actually located regardless of flooring material. Get a 175RPM machine, a good mop bucket and some cotton bonnet pads. For under $100 with the right chemicals you can save your back, avoid saturating a carpet and still satisfy the customer while leaving her with nearly dry carpet with little effort on your part. Remember, we aren't trying to leave NO evidence of the dirt that did the crime - CSI is not going in after you looking for some evidence regardless of how microscopic it is. We just want to deep vacuum and with our cleaning leave no VISIBLE evidence that there was ever a crime. THAT'S MY STORY AND I AM STICKING TO IT. |
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Are you in a high paying business or are you just a self employed low paid grunt who thinks this business provides dignity?
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