Portable Needs More Extraction
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URL: https://www.kleenkuip.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5257
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Topic: Portable Needs More Extraction
Posted By: Dirty Ninja
Subject: Portable Needs More Extraction
Date Posted: 17/August/2008 at 6:53pm
Hi there, I am new to the forum and have been cleaning carpets for about a year now. There are a few frustrating issues that seem to plague me. I would appreciate any advice.
1. Not enough dirty water coming back out of the carpets. I use a Ninja 500, 11/2" hose, 25 ft, run around 300-350psi. It just seems that 10 gallons of water and plus the prespray, and only 5 gallons or less come out.....even with multiple dry passes.
2. which chemicals to use? there are so many and none seem to do that well. I find myself using the harshest out there and having to combine them also to get any real noticeable difference in the look of the carpet. I also run the 210 degree heater....pop there goes another fuse, but the carpets still dirty.
I find I can get carpets generally clean, but I am using too much water and too much physical labor. I am a big guy and this is kicking my a**. any advice anyone?
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Replies:
Posted By: cmaster
Date Posted: 17/August/2008 at 10:54pm
You could buy a good truck mount and solve all of your problems
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The STD Meter
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Posted By: Dirty Ninja
Date Posted: 17/August/2008 at 11:06pm
Too broke. I want to, but I am stuck with porty for now. I even have to get a real job, at least part time for a while cause I moved from my customer base and have to start over again. At least my back will get a break and I can stop sweating a gallon a day.
Want fries with that?
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Posted By: cmaster
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 12:00am
Are you suggesting that carpet cleaning isn't a real job???
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The STD Meter
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Posted By: Dirty Ninja
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 12:34am
That's what my wife thinks.
I just said that cause I worked my ass off running other people's companies for years watching them get fat off the profits and giving me the crumbs.
So, it is hard work, but working for yourself is not as bad as a "real job", the one you hate to go to and you always get the same pay no matter how hard you work and you have no flexibility in a schedule.
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Posted By: Dirty Ninja
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 12:39am
I'm just looking for prespray advice, agitation techniques, or tricks like notching wand for better cfms to get my porty to work more and my back less. I read your posts and I do agree with TM if I had money, maybe next year....but I have no garage anyway in winter.
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Posted By: cmaster
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 1:01am
You could try running 2" vac hose on your porty. Try a Greenglide on your wand. Skip the heater and use some agitation
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The STD Meter
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Posted By: Dirty Ninja
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 1:21am
Why 2" hose? I have 1 1/2" wand end and 1 1/2" extractor port. Does it create more suction just with a bigger hose?
Don't know that I need the glide. I do need agitation more. any good methods other than simple carpet rake?
Doesn't the heater create more agitation as the molecules of water are moving quicker and lift more dirt on the microscopic level?
I do appreciate the advice!
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Posted By: Dirty Ninja
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 4:30am
By the way I don't want to instigate you! I am sorry, but I am IICRC certified.
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Posted By: Dirty Ninja
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 4:48am
I do appreciate any advice, but I find it strange that 5 or 6 people actually answer most post questions. Some just want to sell you.... Ken got me for a few bucks about 6 months ago.
I read all posts when I started a year ago, now I became a member cause I read all the B.S. that goes on and maybe I can siphon through it.
I'm a newbie, but am educated in the field by smarts and sweats for a year. I also ran multi-million dollar retail companies for 20 years......and no, I was not happy no matter the dollar. I know how to sell, make cust. happy, the hard part is making it work with the porty to step up to TM.
I am working out 5 days a week now, 20 miles on bike per day, and weights every other day. You really need to be in good shape if you want to survive in this business. I am very tough, but I almost gave up.......most do. I think about working another 7-10 years for yet another incompetent boss and it motivates me.
One man operation, but I have the drive past most others. Just looking for some brothers to lend me that hand to get to the next level. I am sure I am not in your market from what I read. Was in Chicago, now in suburbs....mostly Stanley Steamer.
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Posted By: Dirty Ninja
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 5:01am
PLEEZE
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Posted By: Ken_Is_OK
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 7:04am
take your extractor to a dealer and have the water lift tested and also the CFM tested....or better still, try turning the 2nd vacuum on....LOL just kidding.
for real though my man, a Ninja in good shape will recover WAY more than 5 gallons on a full tank.
I recover almost 10 gallons but I'm running a Vorninja with kickass 3 stage vac motors :)
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Posted By: cmaster
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 8:49am
Dirty Ninja wrote:
Why 2" hose? I have 1 1/2" wand end and 1 1/2" extractor port. Does it create more suction just with a bigger hose?
It creates more airflow which will give you better recovery.
Don't know that I need the glide. I do need agitation more. any good methods other than simple carpet rake?
A 175 RPM floor scrubber with a carpet brush will give you lots of agitation.
Doesn't the heater create more agitation as the molecules of water are moving quicker and lift more dirt on the microscopic level?
If you are popping breakers why waste your time???
I do appreciate the advice! |
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The STD Meter
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Posted By: cmaster
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 8:52am
Posted By: Dirty Ninja
Date Posted: 18/August/2008 at 2:20pm
I hear ya. I'm down upholstery training $$$ too. Thanks for some tips.
Ken, soooo that's what those other buttons do on the Ninja, more vacs. lol.
I will try 2" hose and adapters, and check out some more agitation machines. Anything for stairs? I guess hands and knees and scrub pads.
I do a lot of olefin berbers and I think water goes right to the pad and have a hard time getting it back. Longer pile seems to get better return. I think I will get it tested though, cause it should feel like it is sucking more. Anyone hear about notching your wand to let some air flow through to increase water lift?
Thanks again. Wife is yelling, I better go. She is half my size but knows where I sleep.
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Posted By: Refined
Date Posted: 04/September/2008 at 10:59pm
for agitation I use a cimex.
Prespray i use is Powdered Power Prespray (magic wand)
As far as lift, I have only ever used a Mytee. Works great.
Harsh chemicals are rarely better. I use all eco friendly chems and i clean circles around anyone in my area. I am often going behind them a month or so later to clean up their messes.
Send me a message, if you need any more details.
------------- -Refined Carpet Cleaning
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Posted By: Mr. Slide
Date Posted: 04/September/2008 at 11:47pm
Go to the "Glide" section, and read about "SLIDES" they will help you a lot!
Cheers, AL
------------- http://qcsliders.com - http://qcsliders.com
!!!Check this out!!!
Put a Slide Not a Glide on your Wand, and do a better job!
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Posted By: John L
Date Posted: 23/September/2008 at 7:24am
Keep them filters clear.. A few way to get more umf for your porty:
Add a booster and 1 more Ametek lamb vac.. Use 3 stage.. And the 2" hose for longer hose runs.. At 25' you can get great drytimes with 1.5".. And maybe slower drystokes..
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Posted By: BigDCleans
Date Posted: 10/October/2008 at 10:56am
Have you tried using a Chemical rinse? Most soaps lower the PH to break up grease. Using an acidic rinse to neutralize the PH means less water down on the return.
Also I would lose the heater, check up on it but I understand the soap works better with heat because the molecules expand and can capture more oils, thus creating a better clean. However I believe the improvement is minimal until you hit temperatures very near steam.
I get the hottest water I can to start, prespray with the proper soap (Olefin can be tricky without the right soap, remember its plastic) then agitate with a buffer if needed. Mix a rinse and slow down the stroke, water needs time to move.
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Posted By: John L
Date Posted: 10/October/2008 at 11:26am
Good point BigD on the rinsing stage.. I always use a rinsing agent emulsifier or acid depending on the situation..
When a carpet fiber is rinsed using plain water, the calcium / magnesium particles (present in the water) cause the detergent molecules to drop the soils they have emulsified. These detergent molecules then start emulsifying the calcium/magnesium particles. The soils redeposit back into the carpet fiber which causes resoiling.
When a rinsing agent is used. The chelating agents hide the calcium/magnesium particles from the detergent molecules. The detergent molecules continue holding onto the soils they have emulsified. This enables them to more thoroughly be rinsed from the carpet fiber.
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Posted By: duckcountry
Date Posted: 10/October/2008 at 2:24pm
cmaster wrote:
Training courses are important. I just prefer not to send my money to an organization that does nothing to promote it's registrants |
Here, Here! I second that.
------------- Are you in a high paying business or are you just a self employed low paid grunt who thinks this business provides dignity?
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Posted By: duckcountry
Date Posted: 10/October/2008 at 2:44pm
Dirty Ninja wrote:
Too broke. I want to, but I am stuck with porty for now. I even have to get a real job, at least part time for a while cause I moved from my customer base and have to start over again. At least my back will get a break and I can stop sweating a gallon a day.
Want fries with that?
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Keep the porty and buy a water claw for it. Keep it for the right jobs and charge more for those. Only use on the areas requiring it and only if the customer pays some good bucks for it.
Shampoo furniture with a dry foam shampoo and extract with a good wet/dry vac. Use air movers to speed drying. Do the furniture first, then the carpet to allow the furniture the maximum time to dry with air movers. Use something like butcher paper when placing the cushions on the furniture to block fabric-to-fabric contact. A canvas tarp serves as a good service for doing you furniture work, placing the furniture on it and working in the room where the furniture is actually located regardless of flooring material.
Get a 175RPM machine, a good mop bucket and some cotton bonnet pads. For under $100 with the right chemicals you can save your back, avoid saturating a carpet and still satisfy the customer while leaving her with nearly dry carpet with little effort on your part.
Remember, we aren't trying to leave NO evidence of the dirt that did the crime - CSI is not going in after you looking for some evidence regardless of how microscopic it is. We just want to deep vacuum and with our cleaning leave no VISIBLE evidence that there was ever a crime.
THAT'S MY STORY AND I AM STICKING TO IT.
------------- Are you in a high paying business or are you just a self employed low paid grunt who thinks this business provides dignity?
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