I'm not happy with the dry times I'm getting on cars.

I was using a Ninja 100 for a long time and had no probs. Now I have a 500psi machine with a regulator and I crank it back to 200.

Any advice or have I already answered my own question? Probably should crank it back to 100 eh?

I started out doing car interiors  a long time ago and worked for an auto detailing shop for many years.  The only cars I clean now are my own. 

Most shops only use a 60 psi machine and do a great job.  One shop I worked at only used a 5 gallon bucket of solution, a wash mitt, and an industrial shop vac.  Their work was great. 

TURN DOWN THE PSI (especially on the upholstery). The thickness of fabric on the upholstery is probably less than 200 of an inch thick and then the rest is foam.  By overwetting the fabric and soaking the foam, there is the possibility of stain wicking up to the surface and drying times are greatly increased. Very important: if there is a deep stain that keeps coming up while cleaning the seats, use a towel to remove it from the surface.  If you have to, lightly mist the spot and wipe again.  Injecting water into the foam is only inviting that spot to evapourate to the surface upon drying. 

You should use 60-100 psi to prespray the upholstery and use a wash mitt or brush to work it in (preferably working the chemical in simultaneously as you spray).  Let it sit 10 minutes and then extract without injecting water.  If you must spray, mist the area to be extracted and then extract without injecting water.

For floors, spray solution, do a quick scrub and extract after 10 minutes.

It is best to usually spray and scrub all the floors first, let them dwell and then do the seats.  After spraying the seats, extract them if they are not that dirty or let them dwell while you go back and extract the floors. 

Unfortunately the notion of using higher psi to clean carpets does not work so well with cars.  Agitation and low psi is the key. 

Let the car run with the heat on if in a cold region or simply leave the windows down and add an air mover if you want to speed up drying times. 

Grease cutting chemicals seem to work best with cars. 

Hope this helps.  

jackblack wrote: hey money, good info you left there but are you saying to prespray then just vac without any water? as in no rinse?

You may or may not be surprised to know that most cars are cleaned by shampoo and or prespray brushed in and maybe vacuumed with an inexpensive vacuum cleaner.

The car cleaning industry is living in the past.

Look at the new http://www.kleenkuip.com/products/airking_blower.htm - AirKing air mover with adjustable air scoop for speed drying. Also clean with hotter water where you clean in the 200 degree fahrenheit range you can cut back on water volume.

doug how much PSI pressure are you using?

also, do you put the tool right on the seat or hold it back, spray then extract?

THX

splash_$$$_dash

The only way I would ever clean a car seat is with a Stealth Dry Tool that has an internal water jet. Chop stroke only and never lift the tool to spray. This way you never get the windows, dash and your clothing all wet. And the PSI won't matter as the tool handles the pressure automatically.

P.S.
Never use a stair tool open-jet to clean upholsery. DANGER!

Carpetologist wrote: splash_$$$_dash P.S. Never use a stair tool open-jet to clean upholsery. DANGER!

Who in their right mind would clean upholstery with a stair tool?  And who in this thread said they did?  Did I miss something?

(1) MY tool is closed

(2) 2 hours is ok but 5 is a bit high.

(3) windows are all open

(4) water is out of the tap, i dont use a TM

Splash,

I guarantee you will not get two hour dry times with the psi's others are recommending.  Try it out for yourself.  The more you work the solution in by hand, the less psi you have to use.  There is not much square footage in a vehicle so you should be able to scrub quick.  I was able to spray down and scrub a car in less than 15 minutes. It is a trade off.  More psi means less elbow grease needed, but much longer dry times.

Jackblack,

Sorry for the ambiguity.  You can lightly spray with straight water or acid rinse (without injecting into the foam and carpet  since this greatly increases drying times) and then extract.

doug wrote: Carpetologist wrote: splash_$$$_dash P.S. Never use a stair tool open-jet to clean upholsery. DANGER! Who in their right mind would clean upholstery with a stair tool?  And who in this thread said they did?  Did I miss something?

LOL...ya think a newfie might use a stair tool on upholstery??? Ted is a lot of things...but I know for a fact that he aint no newfie.

You can use chemspec Dry Clean on the seats ...that works great... and then just steam clean the carpet....

I guess it all depends on how dirty the car is.... unless they are complaining about the dry time...who cares... give them a heafty bag to but over the wet seat...lol

I had someone that wanted me to do a couch outside in the dead of winter....lol

I did it...it froze...I laughed...

The faster it gets dirty... the more the foam guy will clean...lol

the more money he'll make

Worked at many detail shops and car dealerships in the GTA when younger.  None of them used this foam you guys are talking about.  All used low psi steam cleaners except for one establishment.

It's not like you clean it with the windows rolled up...and the bottle open on the back seat...lol