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Rapid Resoiling

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URL: https://www.kleenkuip.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=607
Printed Date: 27/April/2024 at 5:44pm
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Topic: Rapid Resoiling
Posted By: Mark Johnson
Subject: Rapid Resoiling
Date Posted: 27/September/2004 at 6:45pm

Hello fellow rug lovers. I started my business 18 months ago with all intentions of doing the very best I can for the customer, but I have a major problem with a rug brewing.I am currently working on a  dealership's carpets (short-commercial grade rugs) that were extremely dirty. When I finished, they looked great until dry- the soil had wicked up again. I have made two follow up calls with thorough rinsings , but more soil reappears. I followed my suppliers directions concerning product usage, & today it was suggested I use a bonnet machine to finish the job. I have to beleive that the problem may be caused by a prior bonnet cleaning or a high pressure truckmount system that forced the soil down to the backing.I have used 100 to 400 psi on the job(400 worked best) & used an anti resoiling agent on the carpet- tonight I will again rinse the rugs. So far I have removed about 180 gallons of black tar water, & I wonder if there is an end in sight.



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MJ



Replies:
Posted By: Superglide Ken
Date Posted: 27/September/2004 at 8:30pm
No end in sight if you keep doing what you are doing. The problem you are having is wicking. There will always be more than enough material to wick up and cause you problems. A pad machine and cotton pads would be the best way to address this problem, but since you do not have that, do the next best thing. Get yourself the same 100% cotton pads that the pad machine uses. Kleen Keep should be able to help you with this. You do not want to use a synthetic bonnet with a floor machine. They have only a fraction of the absorbancy of cotton pads. Put the cotton pad under the bonnet after you finish the hot water extraction and go over all the area you cleaned. You will need several so buy at least 10 pads or more. The finish will be much improved when done, and so will the appearance the next day. The dryier you leave the carpet, the less the problems afterwards.

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Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.


Posted By: diva
Date Posted: 27/September/2004 at 11:14pm

Hi Mark

What you are experiencing is not resoiling but wick back. Rapid resoiling happens when too much chemical residue is left on the top of the carpet and the residue actually attracts dirt.

Anyways, Ken is right you definately need to pad this surface, it will be dry before you leave so there will be no suprises in the morning. You should use a neutral or slightly acidic cleaning solution to prevent any rapid resoiling after padding. Good luck

The one area Ken may not be accurate is in where you can purchase these pads, I don't believe Ted has any for sale at this time SO If you PM me I will give you a price on the pads you will require! A very good price!

Happy Cleaning 

Carpet Cleaning DIVA



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THE DIVA


Posted By: Superglide Ken
Date Posted: 27/September/2004 at 11:38pm
Diva: Do you use the same cotton pads that John G sells or do you have another supplier? Very good answer up above BTW.

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Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.


Posted By: surroundings
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 6:14am
G'day, Mark.

Sorry to hear about this problem, but maybe we can all learn something from it.  I've got a couple of questions first:

What type of carpet is it you're dealing with?  'Commercial' nylon, poly... what???

What type of chemicals are you using?

What do you believe the nature of the soil is?

Thanks,

Allen




Posted By: Mark Johnson
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 7:08am
Thanks for all of your input. This is a commercial grade nylon glue down. I have been using Pro's Choice extreme Clean & Energy, followed by Last Step rinse. I then treated the problem area with ARA ( anti resoiling agent). The rug is heavily laden with what appears to be oil, & in a 2000 square foot area, I extracted the 180 gallons of tar water. I am on my way right now to price a bonnet machine, although I can't say the things I read about bonnet cleaning were encouraging as to soil removal ("the carpet is a sewer underneath" was one statement). Hot water extraction may be the best way for a really clean carpet, but right now I am being forced to create what APPEARS to be a really clean carpet. I am really impressed with the help I received from this forum, & I will be staying tuned.

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MJ


Posted By: diva
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 10:24am

Hey Ken

We have our own supplier. Here in the GTA

Why do you need?? LOL

of course not you would make your own right??

LOL

Carpet cleaning Diva



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THE DIVA


Posted By: diva
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 10:32am

Hi Mark

MAybe you should look into an OP machine

We have recently taken up this method and had success with situations similar to yours.

If you look in the topic called "OP CLEANING" in the Carpet cleaners hangout page 5 you will see pics of some jobs we recently did with the op!

We have in the past used steam cleaning and bonnett and now we are more than satisfied with OP

Check it out

Good Luck

CARPET CLEANING DIVA



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THE DIVA


Posted By: Superglide Ken
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 11:05am
Diva: My source on them is India. The problem is the best pricing is only given on taking a container of them at a time! Not sure if there is enough machines out there to take 10,000 pads yet. So yes, I was looking for a Canadian source of pads until I am ready to sit on that many. Want to start distributing the new Teflon Pads I made before ordering in a container of them.

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Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.


Posted By: Mark Johnson
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 1:16pm
This is a fantastic forum- I am so glad that others are as passionate about clean rugs as I am.

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MJ


Posted By: MR. STEAMER
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 1:32pm

Mark Johnson... I hate to burst all these peoples bubbles.... I'm sure you are getting some wick backs... but I know for a fact it's resoiling too..

could you answer a few questions for me???

is the carpet in use right after your finished cleaning??? or before it is fully dry???

How is the air flow in the room???? is the place all shut up with no airflow after your done???

bonnet or pad will give you that clean look but so will hwe if done right



Posted By: MR. STEAMER
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 1:33pm
oh yea one more....does the carpet have a sticky or filmy feel after your finished...??? you might just want to rinse with plain water or a textile rinse 


Posted By: Superglide Ken
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 1:40pm

Acid rinse with Prochem All Fiber Rince will eliminate any sticky film that may be present from the cleaning side, and reduce wicking too.

 

Mark: You might say that some of us are down right fanatical about the cleaning process and on ways to improve on it. Instead of counting sheep when I go to bed these days I find myself counting glides and pads! lol

 

Superglide Ken



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Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.


Posted By: diva
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 1:42pm
DITTO! KEN DITTO! 

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THE DIVA


Posted By: MR. STEAMER
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 1:46pm

a trojan glide

and a Maxi Pad....

hey ted we need section for these... glide section and a pad section



Posted By: carpetologist
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 1:51pm

Mark Johnson,

You saw Superglide Ken' and Diva's answers yesterday. here is my slant basically the same advice.

The fact that this carpet was probably bonnet cleaned to death may be your answer. It may take as many as 10 cleanings to totally remove. So what caused the problem will also solve (visually) the problem.

Steam extract for as long as you can afford to. Then go over the tips with a bonnet or preferably a pad and leave speed drying equipment in-place and you will have a visually satisfied customer.

You said you were going to look at bonnet machines. Do not make your decision until you compare pad machines and pads. I know they sound the same but if you search through the archives you will hear two very conflicting methods of soil removal.



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Kleen Kuip Supply Mart Inc.

http://www.kleenkuip.com - New & Used Professional Carpet Cleaning Machines, Restoration Equipment, Training, Service and Supplies


Posted By: Mark Johnson
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 2:18pm

This past Sunday I approached a particularly hard traveled area with a strong mix of Extreme Clean & Energy. I agitated the area with a Rotovac with scrubbing heads, followed by a rinse (Pro's Choice Final Step)with a portable extractor.

Then I used Prochem All Fiber Rinse in a CFR Pro 400 machine. The mix was changed before recommended intervals. I ran blowers on that area while I worked on another section with the Prochem rinse. I noticed that the rinse solution gave me the same results as detergent!

All areas I used the CFR machine & rinse on were dry for the Monday opening, however the area I Rotovaced was still damp ( & wicking!). Those areas that were dry felt very clean & soft, with no stickiness, but I thought the rug should look cleaner.Please note also that the staff, owner & janitorial person complimented the work over all others before me. Yes, I am particular, but I know all my fellow cleaners in this forum who saw the results would agree there is need for improvement.The area is well ventilated, & as of this writing, I am comitted to remove the soil by further rinses, as I just blew this weeks budget on a water claw, & I still have to feed the family from the earnings of my very new, VERY exiting business. I reviewed OP cleaning & was in awe of the results, but it has to wait untill the bills are paid prior to pursuing it further.



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MJ


Posted By: Superglide Ken
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 2:34pm

I second Ted's advice. Bonnet machines and Pad machines may look simular and both go round and round, but that is where the simularities end. The bonnet machines go round in a near perfectly circular patern that basically only cleans on side of the fiber, and mostly the tips of the staple yarn at that. They use a synthetic thick pad that often has less than 10% of the soil transfer abilities of a thinner cotton pad. The reason for this is simple. The carpet fibers are basicly made of plastic(unless they are made of wool), and only materials that are more absorbant than themselves will let them release there soil load for removal. Using another plastic pad will not do this very well. But cotton will, especially 100% cotton. The blends do not work anywhere near as well. When you use a 100% cotton pad, you are using something that is usually at least 10X more absorbantant than the nylon carpet fibers are to the soil, and much of it will transfer off the carpet leaving it clean, as long as you change them often enough.

 

The Pad machine has a much more important difference to it that a bonnet machine does not, and that makes it worth buying however. That is occillation. This is accomplished by building in an offset on the steel shaft that is turned by the motor. By manipulating this "cam profile" on the shaft of the machine , it will now shake as it operates, allowing the pad to dig down deep into the carpet and remove far more soil than any bonnet machine. The carpet fiber is getting cleaned from all sides now, not just one side like the bonnets do. In any contest between the pad machine and a bonnet machine , the pad machine will always remove at least twice the soil from the carpet. This can be proven just by examining the pads of both. This type of machine is IMO, the very best VLM system you can buy in both its degree of soil removal and the finished appearance it imparts to the carpet surface. This allows you to charge a premium price for it above what is obtainable from the HWE system alone.>30 to .40/sq ft is easily done in most markets. Your cost input costs both on the purchase side and operation side are very low as well. Chemical cost is about $1 per house, and pad costs in Canada are very reasonable around $9 Cdn or less with new suppliers coming in to make the cost less getting them in Canada as well.They will last up to 100 cleanings as well. New Pads that clean even better are on the cusp of release as well. Now is a great time to add this important tool to your arsonal. If you are a die-hard HWE guy that has to have HWE as part of the picture as well, you soon will be able to purchase a machine that can do both padding and HWE with the same machine. This machine is equipped so that if you have a  Cleanco TM, you will be able to use a system called Power-Dri with it as well and be able to clean and dry carpets in 10 minutes or less. Available the first half of next year.

 

If you want to get into this type of cleaning before then however, I wouldn't wait. The current Conquerer machine is very good already, and as long as you have the room on the truck for it, will make you lots of money in the meantime that you are not making now. No time like the present to get started.

 

 

Superglide Ken



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Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.


Posted By: surroundings
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 7:07pm
Mark,

You've recieved some 'tryable' advice here.  If you're going back to rinse though, I'd do as Mr. Steamer suggests, but rinse at a very low psi.


Let us know what happens...

Allen


Posted By: Mark Johnson
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 7:39pm
Thanks everyone. I am going back to that shop on Saturday night (what a great way to spend "the night out") & I will try to restrain myself from overduing the pressure. I have been checking out all of your suggestions & have been to a number of other subjects, & it's good to see those of us who are nose down in carpets (for whatever reason) have a sense of humor . I will keep you posted on this page. Of course, my wish list of more equipment continues to grow.

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MJ


Posted By: beamer
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 11:21pm

I never run my psi above 310 . I let the chem and heat do the jop for me .

 



Posted By: beamer
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 11:22pm
What does "op" mean


Posted By: Superglide Ken
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 11:30pm

Occillating Pad.

 

It is made that way on a Pad machine by providing an offset on the steel shaft that comes from the motor of the machine. The effect is to shake the machine in a lateral motion at the same time the motor is turning the driver on the machine in a circular motion. When a cotton pad that has cleaning agent is used underneath the driver, it removes much soil from the carpet fibers in such a way that all bonnets and most HWE machines are unable to do.Padman would be proud of that explanation.lol



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Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.


Posted By: beamer
Date Posted: 28/September/2004 at 11:48pm

Do you drive it like an rx20 or floor machine ?

I live in victoria , i wonder does anyone know where i can view one here ?



Posted By: danmarck
Date Posted: 29/September/2004 at 12:22am
Do you know if it is available in the states?

could you link me to a few websites to learn more?



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Here to help you grow your business!


Posted By: diva
Date Posted: 29/September/2004 at 12:58am

http://www.ccsop.com - www.ccsop.com

http://www.challengerop.com - www.challengerop.com

http://www.orbitec2.com - www.orbitec2.com

Check out all three, they are all American manufactured

Happy surfing!

Carpet cleaning Diva



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THE DIVA


Posted By: Shortwun
Date Posted: 29/September/2004 at 7:33am

You beat me to it Diva, but here is a site that carries a lot of information in it.

http://members.aol.com/wwwlinkup/private/index.htm - http://members.aol.com/wwwlinkup/private/index.htm

Have fun, and expand your wish list.

 

Cheers,

Shorty.



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The short, round, mound of sound, from up top, down under, with a comment on anything and everything.



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