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Recoil3 problem

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Topic: Recoil3 problem
Posted By: Laserman
Subject: Recoil3 problem
Date Posted: 25/February/2008 at 8:35am
Guys,

When using my recoil3 with my Hydramaster drimaster tool I keep gettting water leaking from one of vac exhaust ports.  I've been decreasing my detergent ratio in the machine  to almost nothing as well as my prespray  .  What Am I missing here?  I'm using defoamer in the tank and throught the vac hose as I'm going.  I'm not getting much foam but still the leaking occurs.  I'm afraid  that soon I'm gonna ruin this vac motor before long.  What could be the problem?  I'm stuck here.


Barry



Replies:
Posted By: Ed Valentine
Date Posted: 25/February/2008 at 11:52am
Barry;
 
I would contact; Rick Lord at 770-598-7463.  He used to run a drymaster as well. Perhaps he can give you some insight.
 
Ed Valentine
cross-american


Posted By: John L
Date Posted: 25/February/2008 at 1:36pm

Its either foam or your shutoff isnt working properly. Your vacs are sucking in moisture obviously.. Make sure the water level don't go past the redline..



Posted By: Laserman
Date Posted: 26/February/2008 at 12:14am
John,

This happens when the Waste tank is Low.  I'm gonna try reducing the areas I Prespray down to only the sections that need it.  Are there Presprays That are low foaming?  This seems to Occur whatever Prespray I try.

Barry


Posted By: danmarck82
Date Posted: 26/February/2008 at 12:26am
Procyon is soap FREE and an excellent prespray.


Posted By: John L
Date Posted: 26/February/2008 at 12:16pm
You might want to check the stack in the wastetank connected to that vac motor.. There might be a crack/loose connection in it at a lower level sucking in a small amount of water..
 
I use Chemspec's stuff.. No foam..


Posted By: Hammy
Date Posted: 26/February/2008 at 12:46pm
[QUOTE=John L]You might want to check the stack in the wastetank connected to that vac motor.. There might be a crack/loose connection in it at a lower level sucking in a small amount of water..
 
 Good call John, I had that happen once to me


-------------
Could somebody just clean my carpets!


Posted By: Laserman
Date Posted: 27/February/2008 at 8:40pm
Thanks Guys,

I've just about figured that I just can't prespray very much at all.  
I cleaned a condo unit this moring and just prespotted instead of 
prespraying.  No dripping from the exhaust.  Later in the day I did
another unit PreSpraying with Procyon and the Leaking from the
exhaust happened again.  Could it be that the Drymaster  causing
this somehow?  I'm using Defoamer and Not Getting alot of foam.
Soons as I can I gonna hook up my regular wand and prespray as
usual to see if this occurs with the wand.  So far I'm very
disapointed with this extracter.  My galaxy extracter NEVER does
this at all.  I'll also check for the cracks.

Barry


Posted By: Ed Valentine
Date Posted: 28/February/2008 at 10:12am
Laserman;
 
Can't figure out what your problem is either (as long as I have been doing this). Other than the fact that the cleaning agent pre-spray --has to be--too darn foamy.  Have you put the anti-foam in your solution tank so as to kill the foam collected inside your hoses before entering into your recovery tank?
 
If one thinks about this, you certainly have--more than enough---vacuum extraction performance. And, you certainly have enough room inside the vacuum tank. And, your vacuum stack pipe is protected by a  float (does not respond to foam; only water btw) and surrounded by a protective flange. Therefore, it appears to me through my experience, that it is a simple adjustment of what it is you are using or how you are using it.
 
It is true that a lower performance system will be less likely to "vacuum in foam" than a he system ever will. However, there's that word again: "Foam".
 
Hope this helps;
Ed Valentine
cross-american corp.
 
 


Posted By: Superglide Ken
Date Posted: 28/February/2008 at 5:29pm
Get the powdered defoamer that Chemspec sells. If the problem is foam, that product will solve it for you. It kills all foam before it can reach the tank. trying to kill foam in the tank is the wrong approach IMO. Some of it is bound to get into the motor if you wait to kill it there.

-------------
Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.


Posted By: Laserman
Date Posted: 28/February/2008 at 9:55pm
I Didn't have any jobs that I used the extracter for today, all dry clean day today.  Tomorrow I should be able to experiment again.  I have put Defoamer in the solution tank.  Whenever I prespray wall to wall water leaks out the exhaust, when I just lightly spot the bad areas It works just fine.  I've tried 4 different Prespays all have failed.  The last being Procyon which should not foam.  I don't think the problem is foam related.  I'm not leaking Foam out the exhaust, I'm leaking water.  About 1/2 to 1 gallon is leaked out on a LR/DR 2 Bdr condo job.   This extracter is also Leaking dirty waste water on my van floor overnight. There's usally about an inch of waste water still in the tank when i load in back in the van.  Something is wrong and I think I'm gonna have to let a repairman take a look at it.  Ed, Where does my warranty stand?

Barry


Posted By: cmaster
Date Posted: 28/February/2008 at 10:21pm
Sounds like a cracked waste tankOuch

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The STD Meter


Posted By: Laserman
Date Posted: 29/February/2008 at 6:23pm
Originally posted by cmaster cmaster wrote:

Sounds like a cracked waste tankOuch


I doubt that's possible, it's brand new and has been CAREFULLY treated 
and used maybe 10 times.  Unless is arrived in that condition.

Barry


Posted By: Superglide Ken
Date Posted: 29/February/2008 at 6:52pm
Easy to check that theory out Barry. Get some red or blue food color and add it to a 2 gallon bucket of water. Pour into machine. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Look in the machine body underneath the tank. If you see color there, you know your tank is leaking. If it leaks , water can drip onto the motor(s)and be drawn into the motor(s). Worth checking out.

-------------
Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.


Posted By: cmaster
Date Posted: 01/March/2008 at 2:46am
Wow.............a great idea from KenShocked

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The STD Meter


Posted By: FriendlyHammer
Date Posted: 01/March/2008 at 3:21am
He always cleans with food coloring, just in case.


Posted By: Ed Valentine
Date Posted: 03/March/2008 at 1:36pm
barry;
 
I honestly can not rememebr "WHEN" we have ever had to send a motor replacement to anyone, period. And I'm not kidding either. However, to answer your question, one year warranties exist on all equipment under normal operating use.
 
Ofcourse, this does not cover the following:    Product in a house thats burning down; Dropped off the back end of a truck while crusing down the highway; Product that is stolden or repossed by ones bank or lease Company; Product smashed via a forklift;....................I'll think of several others that a few Operators have asked about over the past 30 years. (not kidding either, just ask Ted!)
 
Seriously tho, I can't imagine how any water could "leak into" the vacuums or vacuum exhausts the way it is designed and engineered. has to be foam, period.
 
Ed Valentine
cross-american corp.


Posted By: Soil Lint Green
Date Posted: 03/March/2008 at 2:37pm
No cracks anywhere?  No pin holes?  Where is the leak coming from?  Got a picture of the motor compartment?  The water leak may be a symptom whereas the source is the problem.  As the line goes in Short Circuit "more input"

Doc, my arm hurts.  Not as useful as Doc, I fell off the roof and now my arm hurts.

Need to determine why/how.


-------------
It's ORY GUN, not OR A GONE. Learn to talk.


Posted By: Laserman
Date Posted: 04/March/2008 at 12:43am
Ed,

I took the Recoil extracter out of the van.  The van carpet is SOAKED.  I set it on some concrete, came back later and there's water underneath.  It has a small leak.  What it could be, I have no idea.  I'll have to take to repair guy.  I'm not using it right now.  I can't do any prespray at all or water is leaking out the exhaust.  With  this leaking situation the recoil is unuseable to me until the problem gets fixed. I used my Galaxy extracter today with the Drymaster tool.  I presprayed and no water leaked out the exhaust at  all so Something is seriously wrong with the recoil.  I'm pretty disapointed and I feel like I wasted my money on this unit.  I'll have the repair guy call you when I get the recoil to him.  My Wife is pretty pissed of that I bought this extracter.

Barry



Posted By: Superglide Ken
Date Posted: 04/March/2008 at 2:10am
Definatly sounds like a leak Laserman. Make sure the repairman uses the dye soution test if he has any difficulty finding that leak. Way more water involved here than any foam would cause IMO.

-------------
Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.


Posted By: Ed Valentine
Date Posted: 04/March/2008 at 8:19am
Barry;
 
I would perhaps check and see if the "leak" is coming from where the stack pipe goes into and through the recovery tank. Perhaps you untwisted it (??). Another area to check "may be" (??) where the dolly handle is attached to the solution tank by 4 bolts with washers. Did you install those snugly enough?
 
These are guesses at this point however, I can assure you that there is not something "seriously wrong" with that system. Most things are pretty easy once they are discovered.
 
Ed Valentine


Posted By: Ed Valentine
Date Posted: 15/April/2008 at 9:42am
I thought it my duty to "up-date" everyone who had read the posts of complaints above since it would not be proper to just leave a situation without a great conclusion of sorts. (leaves the wrong impression IMHO)
 
Anyways, i had a great conversation with Barry approx 3 weeks ago and he solved his problem with his operation of the machine.
 
Just wanted everyone to know that Barrys problem was "foaming" of recovered cleaning agents (pre-spray, etc....) residues, as he had told me.
 
Once he added a defoamer system, it was working like a charm and not blowing out water (foam) the vacuum motor exhaust.
 
We had even sent him our newer Air-Flow vacuum lid (that was not needed btw) for his use at N/C.
 
Anyways, Problem Solved!!!!
 
Thanks to everyone!
Ed Valentine
cross-american corp.


Posted By: Laserman
Date Posted: 09/May/2008 at 4:37pm
Guys,

Well, the problem is still not fixed.  The foam downer system did stop the water/foam from leaking out of the Exhaust BUT it takes a half gallon of liquid foamer to do that and from a $ standpoint that's not a viable option.  So, I still have a brand new Recoil3 extracter that does not work properly.  The problem is not my Hydramaster Drimaster tool because this extracter leaks water/foam out of the exhaust when I clean tile too.  So I have a $4000.00 extracter gathering dust in my garage that I can't use because there's something wrong with it.  I'm not a happy camper.  Basically,  I'm out $4000.00

Barry


Posted By: Superglide Ken
Date Posted: 09/May/2008 at 5:21pm
Looks like Ed spoke too soon. And to think that some bitch over not getting a $20 glide fast enough? Ed would be tarred and feathered if he had customers like that.

-------------
Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.


Posted By: Laserman
Date Posted: 09/May/2008 at 6:48pm
Ken,

Ed didn't speak too soon.  I called him after I did my first job with the Foamdowner system.  I knew I used alot of defoamer but figured I would back off the dilution until It started leaking again thru the Vac exhaust.  Well,  I didn't back off the dilution very much and here comes the water/foam again thru the exhaust.  This really stinks because I have a $4000.00 machine that I can't use.  I should have bought a Ninja.  This has been a real nightmare for me.  It's been My worst buying decision since I've been in business by far.

Barry


Posted By: cmaster
Date Posted: 09/May/2008 at 9:24pm
I thought Ed took good care of his customers. Don't tell me that hanging out on the same boards as Ken has influenced himShocked

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The STD Meter


Posted By: John L
Date Posted: 10/May/2008 at 4:01pm
Sure is a small wastetank


Posted By: Superglide Ken
Date Posted: 11/May/2008 at 2:25pm
Better a small tank than a machine that dont work?

-------------
Inventor of the Teflon Wand Glide and the Turboteck Rotary Air Duct Cleaners for TMs.


Posted By: Ed Valentine
Date Posted: 12/May/2008 at 9:25am
Barry;
 
I have responded in length to your "private" e-mail just prior to this writing regarding your situation. Personally, I am alittle taken aback, sir. Since you have made your situation public (which is fine with me now, than why don't I make my response public as well. Because I do not think it is fair for these situations to always be "one-sided" while the manufacturer has to stand back and take the blows). And, you know that you have stated to me in prior e-mails that I have at hand, that "you like the machine, but............................." (the foam).
 
Hummm.
 
Here was my response:
________________________________________________________________
Barry;
 
I have been building these system for over 30 years now and know them pretty darn well by now, and I can tell you that there is nothing wrong with that particular machine, nor did I sell you (in your words) "a piece of junk". The amount of time and effort that goes into each and every machine we make for our customers like you, would be un-heard of in this Industry, period.
 
In fact, you have the newer more heavy-duty industrial system that will produce terrific results when operated properly. In fact, I consistently receive very positive testimonials on its operation and the way it is built and designed by its Operators.
 
When you first called complaining about "water" dripping from the exhaust on one pipe, I immediately mention that it was really condensed "foam" and suggested using an anti-foaming product. (In fact, this is also indicated within your manuel.)  However, We went back and forth on this issue until you had a special defoamer device installed on the vacuum inlet that solved this problem (thus backed my origional statement) as you had indicated to me both by email message and a phone call.
 
If you recall, I had also mentioned that there are differences in defoamer products--as there are with most all products. Some are less concentrated than others. I suggest trying our brand   STOP defoamer. In fact, our STOP defoamer can also be put in the solution tank and will kill the foam at the carpet way before it gets back into the recovery tank-----and into the stack pipes.
 
It's alot MORE concentrated and doesn't cost as much as most others. However, please make note here that YOU will have to test it by experimenting with the correct dilution ratios for that particular injection device you had purchased.
 
I had also another variable: The particular cleaning agent you are using. It has proven to me that it is extremely foamy, and therefore, requires a defoamer product to help calm it down.
 
In conclusion, I can not convince you that our products are very well made by our  company that has over 30 years of proven history, nor can I convince you of my personal knowledge (37 years plus)  as well. Only you have control of that opinion. However, we have immediately responded to each and every reasonable request you have made thus far. In fact, even sent you a new Flo-Thru vacuum lid that we felt would "help" eliminate your foaming problem.
 
But allow me to make one thing clear; our committment will remain the same. I will personally "try my very best" to help you and educate you in regards to your situation---------if I can and if that is possible.
 
Always, The very best to you, sir;
Ed Valentine
 _____________________________________________________________
 
Now, I am not going to post endless tesimonials from the staisfied Operators of the exact SAME system you have here because I think that might be boring and only appear as a sales pitch. HOWEVER, please note, that if anyone out there believes otherwise, please call me personally, and or, we would be more than glad to forward these as proof.
 
In conclusion, I don't think it is appropriate to insinuate that we have "faulty products" because that would not be truthful and would only indicate a rediculous opinion.
 
The very best to ALL;
Ed Valentine

 


Posted By: Laserman
Date Posted: 13/May/2008 at 9:45pm
Well,

I've tried several Defoamers and several different cleaning solutions and the problem still persist.


Posted By: John L
Date Posted: 13/May/2008 at 10:32pm
Somethings fishy here.. If all connections are tight and sealed then it would be the chemicals or customers spilling shampoo somewhere.. Your running Ametek lamb vacs.. Is there something you might have missed?


Posted By: FriendlyHammer
Date Posted: 14/May/2008 at 12:22am
I've got the same problem with several machines (castex, mytee, ect). The issue is always the valve.   Be it a float valve or ball valve, it needs to be adjusted to be more sensitive. In a high cfm machine the vacuums can suck off the surface of the water before the valve kicks in. I'm constanly tweeking those things because of the same problem. 
 
It's a fact of life.


-------------
Ken Harris Nov 08:

"This will cause oil to rise to near $100 by the end of November. It stays up there to about the end of February. Better save this so you know who told it to you first."


Posted By: Laserman
Date Posted: 17/May/2008 at 9:33pm
Hammer,

How I can I adjust my Recoil to stop this problem?  Maybe that's the problem.  Ed says it's a foam problem and he surely knows more than I do , but it does the same thing when I clean tile and rinse with just water.  Other than this problem the Recoil works  just great.  I hate seeing water/foam leak out of the exhaust cause I fear I will ruin the vac motors.

Barry


Posted By: FriendlyHammer
Date Posted: 18/May/2008 at 2:14am
Originally posted by Laserman Laserman wrote:

Hammer,

How I can I adjust my Recoil to stop this problem?  Maybe that's the problem.  Ed says it's a foam problem and he surely knows more than I do , but it does the same thing when I clean tile and rinse with just water.  Other than this problem the Recoil works  just great.  I hate seeing water/foam leak out of the exhaust cause I fear I will ruin the vac motors.

Barry
 
The float valve is easy, and the ball valve is a litte more tricky.
 
On the float valve, you simply bend the arm of the float so that it is lower (closer to the dirty water).  The collar of the float valve (the ring that holds it to the pipe) can also sometimes act like a straw and pull water between the collar and the pipe, so that will need to be checked and sealed with some kind of removable goo of some sort. However, lowering the float enough can keep the water below the collar, too.  I don't see float valves around as much as I used to, but I prefer them.
 
On the ball valve, you first have to make sure the cage is totally clean and that the ball has no water in it.  If it has water in it, that will explain why it doesn't close sooner (it will have to be replaced). However, if everything is fine, you can wrap a piece of electrical tape near the top of the cage (on the wire mesh near the opening) so that the valve is more sensitive (the air intake is closer to the ball). It will take some experimentation to figure out just how much is needed.
 
Also, if you move a machine around when it is almost full, water will get around the valve just before the valve closes.  There's really nothing that can be done about that, except to stop moving the machine when it's almost full. Everyone has that problem.
 
Finally, you can test the tank by filling it up with water and making sure the valve is closed while the machine is on and the tank lid is closed. If water keeps coming out of the bottom, the water is leaking around some hole in the tank somewhere. This is unlikely because the dirt would easily fill such a hole and make any leak stop or be unnoticeable. But remember, if you have a float valve, the collar can act like a straw in this situation, so you will have to follow my instructions above in this situation.


-------------
Ken Harris Nov 08:

"This will cause oil to rise to near $100 by the end of November. It stays up there to about the end of February. Better save this so you know who told it to you first."


Posted By: FriendlyHammer
Date Posted: 18/May/2008 at 2:26am
One more thing. I haven't seen the inside of a Recoil, but I have a problem with Mytee machines that sounds like the problem you have having. In the bigger Mytee machines, there a rubber thing just inside the tank where the water comes in. It is supposed to direct water downward, but it tends to get turned once in a while and gets directed at the ball valve. When this happens, the incoming water forces the ball downward while going directly into the vac pipe (yikes!).  I've walked into rooms that my guys are cleaing and seen pools of water 4 feet wide!
 
So you may want to check other things that might have gotten moved around. 


-------------
Ken Harris Nov 08:

"This will cause oil to rise to near $100 by the end of November. It stays up there to about the end of February. Better save this so you know who told it to you first."


Posted By: Just Ol' Willy
Date Posted: 22/May/2008 at 9:33am
Two other things to check for- see that the boot is fully tightened as well as the drain valve. Clean out the waste tank and silicone or goop the area around the bottom of the stacks. I'm coming up to 2 years using my Recoil and have had little in the way of grief. Good luck!


Posted By: duckcountry
Date Posted: 22/May/2008 at 1:21pm
While pouring in a defoamer may be costly (not that much though) and time consuming and one more thing to remember, considering the costly damage from not doing it should convince someone.  Don't be chincy on the defoamer.



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Are you in a high paying business or are you just a self employed low paid grunt who thinks this business provides dignity?


Posted By: Just Ol' Willy
Date Posted: 22/May/2008 at 6:06pm
I've thought about this all day.Is your deflector turned downward? Mine gets tossed in and out of a truck all day, and one time I chafed a small pinhole in the rubber drainage boot on the side- check to see if your getting any air in there or just call me. I'll pm you my number.

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Posted By: Ed Valentine
Date Posted: 23/May/2008 at 10:01am
Thanks to all , for the great ideas and help above to laserman (Barry).
 
His problem from day one was: Foaming.
 
He  called me approx 5-6 weeks ago, and told me "Problem solved".
 
He had a special defoamer device installled on the vacuum port inlet of his machine and told me that he placed a pail behind the vacuum exhaust so that he could run a test and see if any foam was being blown out. He checked this about every 5 mins just to make sure [!!] when he was using the machine on the job site. And, he found that ---not one drop---of foam was being blown out. "Problem solved"!!! Now, he stated that he was happy.
 
3-4 weeks later he called me and stated that the defoamer was too expensive and he was going broke buying it from his Supplier. I mentioned to him that I did not sell him the defoamer; there are different concentrations of defoamers; and so on.
 
Now if the machine (in his words, written on May 13th btw) "I've said it before, I know the machine is AWESOME, cleans great, dries fast, etc..if I could just solve this problem".,
 
His problem is FOAM from carpets and/or hard floor cleaning.
 
Don't know unfortunately, what to do beyond the efforts we have put into this situation. Sent him a new air-deflector/ CFM lid also, to no avail.
 
The very best to all and especially to Barry. I hope he solves his problem but his problem is not with his machine or how it was built.
 
Ed Valentine


Posted By: CCandmore
Date Posted: 23/May/2008 at 12:56pm
Ed, is defoamer usually needed with the Recoil or does it depend on the chems used?


Posted By: Ed Valentine
Date Posted: 23/May/2008 at 1:19pm
CCandmore;
 
Any true air-flow; high-velocity CFM system is going to naturally--mix Air with Water, and the residues that it recovers--and therefore, it sometimes may have more of a tendency to cause these incoming residues/soaps to form as foam and rinse above the level of the water recovered. And since foam is a lot lighter than water and because of the extremely air-flow in the recovery tank, it could be more of a common senerio under certain and particular situations and thus vacuumed thru the vacuum motors. (But, not always, btw)
 
HOWEVER, this is dependent largely upon the particular cleaning agents being used, as you had allutted to, or what was already left behind in the carpet fibers. And, this will largely be dependent on whether the Operator is required to use defoamer, or not. (Keeping in mind that not all defoamers are the same based on quality concentrations, etc..)
 
Keep in mind that cleaning deep into the carpet fibers and achieving total and through extraction (hopefully) is everyones goal. At least it should be in this business! Therefore, on less efficient machines, or those generic machines with less vacuum are less prevelant at times to capture the amount of residue(s) that a true High-Performance system would.
 
I also believe that we must keep in mind that foaming is not only created from SOAP left in carpets but also we must consider this same problem (if we let it become one, btw...) whenever we clean a hard floor. The incoming water will really Slam into that recovery tank and must be calmed down at times with a good grade defoamer.
 
Hope that helps answer your question.
 
Ed Valentine
cross-american corp.


Posted By: Just Ol' Willy
Date Posted: 23/May/2008 at 1:53pm
Uncle Willy's cheapo tip of the day_ Buy some cheap sponges from the dollar store, cut them in smaller sizes.. Soak some defoamer into them and run through the vac hose. It gives the hose a coat and lasts in the tank, as long as you don't toss it with the waste water when you drain, for a fair while.

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Posted By: duckcountry
Date Posted: 24/May/2008 at 2:33am
isn't arm & hammer a good defoamer?  baking soda seems like a cheap enough one.

And if he is cleaning with Ecogent, I think it is commonly known this is a high foaming cleaner.




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Are you in a high paying business or are you just a self employed low paid grunt who thinks this business provides dignity?


Posted By: Ed Valentine
Date Posted: 29/October/2008 at 3:27pm
Gentlemen;
 
I thought i would post a most recent e-mail received via this great board, from Laserman in regards to the situation he was having and the solution to his foaming problem.  So, sorry Ken for your blindsided slap.
______________________________________________________________
 
Subject: Recoil
Sent: 15/October/2008 at 8:58am
Sent by: http://www.kleenkuip.com/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=1123 - Laserman
Group: Groupie Groupie
Recoil
Add%20to%20Buddy%20List http://www.kleenkuip.com/forum/pm_buddy_list.asp?name=Laserman - Add Buddy  Delete http://www.kleenkuip.com/forum/pm_delete_message.asp?pm_id=8121 - Delete  Reply%20To%20Private%20Message http://www.kleenkuip.com/forum/pm_new_message_form.asp?code=reply&pm=8121 - Reply
Ed,
 
You remember the extra lid you sent me for my foaming problem?  I had not tried it till 2 weeks ago.  I don't understand how a little hole  in the lid can solve this problem but it did.  Now the machine works just fine.  Thanks.
 
Barry


Posted By: FloorPizza
Date Posted: 11/May/2009 at 7:13pm
Originally posted by FriendlyHammer FriendlyHammer wrote:

One more thing. I haven't seen the inside of a Recoil, but I have a problem with Mytee machines that sounds like the problem you have having. In the bigger Mytee machines, there a rubber thing just inside the tank where the water comes in. It is supposed to direct water downward, but it tends to get turned once in a while and gets directed at the ball valve. When this happens, the incoming water forces the ball downward while going directly into the vac pipe (yikes!).  I've walked into rooms that my guys are cleaing and seen pools of water 4 feet wide!
 
So you may want to check other things that might have gotten moved around. 


Mr. Hammer, you have just solved a huge problem I had with a Mytee 1001DX I rented last week.

Unfortunately, I had already cleaned two rooms and didn't know it had been puking return water out of the one vacuum exhaust until I had the unit parked on a wood floor and saw the puddle. The previous two rooms had been soaked through to the pad, of course. I pulled up the carpet and had to put two area blowers on it to dry it. Luckily, this was on my own house, as I'm still way too much of a newb to clean anyone elses carpet (even for free).

I had absolutely no idea why I kept getting water out of that darn vacuum exhaust. I must have looked in that return tank a hundred times and couldn't find anything wrong. However, I now realize that the tank inlet you refer to was pointing directly at the ball valve.

I had my mind set on buying a Mytee 1000 series or M5 machine until I had this experience. Now that that riddle is solved, I'll consider putting the Mytee machines back in the list of contenders.

HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE thank you for this!!!!



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