Would like to know what the hot set up out there for carpet cleaning in Residential. Been doing some white carpets that have some pretty heavy stains. I can still see some of the stains. I was told to try some flex as a presprayer and fiber rinse to remove the flex. What works for you guys.. Psi that you are using to? 

hardworkers wrote: Are you using any spotters?

Only like in the areas where there's Coffee stains and stuff. but the stuff that I'm talking about is the heavy soiling.

I use mostly BP stuff.

Prespray flex with citrus solv, extract with white lighting.

cmaster wrote: Not on stain resistant carpet. Flex pH is way too high

I have heared that the ph of Flex is in the 12.5 zone? 10 is the max ph for Nylon..

cmaster wrote: Correct

Guess getting that IICRC helped me some. So to prevent browning you want to do a acid rinse after a product in the 9-5-10 scale?

depends on soil level

browning usually occurs on nasty dirty carpets or if you really soak er to get it clean and it takes forever to dry

I prefer a neutral emulsifier most of the time or if it's nasty I'll use a higher Ph emusifier like Dry Slurry or lately I'm hooked on Extrasolution from Cosway supplies.

I'm not big on High Ph presprays but with Flex or the likes I would use an acid rinse or on a very dirty berber I like to use one

neutral emulisfer... high heat low psi and lots of suction.

It may take longer to clean but I never have any worries with browning..

when I say low psi I mean 250 to 300 psi on a truckmount thats pretty low.  you have to move the wand slower, but you get better drying times.

it's when the under pad gets over wet is when you run into problems, with wick backs and browning.

a double dry vac works well especially on berber.

anything over 500 psi without suction of at least 15hg your asking for trouble.

you end up hitting the underpadding hard and if you don't have enough suction to pull up the water...brown out

I personally have never browned a carpet, and only have ever run an acid rinse to clean up after someone elses mess..

But thats just me...lucky I guess

Technique is everything

I will never trigger both ways... I notice a lot of tech do that...faster I guess..

most jobs take me and 1 hour and a half... or two hours...

I like to spray down dry vac back up move over and spray down again.

and with running 2" hose all the way in sure helps on the drying times..

plus I always get the custy to turn the furnince fan to the on position

the more the air moves the faster it'll dry

Hey everybody...

My name is Mike from cleveland and I am new to the forum. 

Why bother spending extra time and attention to preventing a carpet from browning?  Especially in this business where time is money.  I usually warn the customer just before I leave the house that there is a slight chance of brown streaking due to the PH in the carpet...and if it happens just call me...it takes no more than a minute or 2 to get the browning out. 

Also, it seems like most of the cleaners on this forum use presprays and spotters.  I never really got into using prespays because of many reasons:

The detergent I use in my hydramaster 4.8 gets the job done regardless of how dirty the carpet is. 

Most presprays are not biodegradable and have a "chemical cleaner" smell. 

The prespray is soapy and cuts the vacuum down from the foam buildup (I know i could use crystal defoamer to help this but that would be another added cost and time).

If anybody has any ideas for a good prespray that is biodegradable and steers clear of these predicaments, let me know.

The only spotters I use are pikrin (for grease, gum, and tar) and rusticator (for removing rust).  Other than that, whatever i cant get out is a stain (like ink or red stains).  I try to stay away from spotters to eliminate the risk at ruining a carpet by bleaching it out or causing color loss.  Any suggestions for spotters that get red out?

Thanks,

Mike

OHIOCLEANER

what you just run soap through your machine???

I always apply solution on the push stroke.  Keeps the four jet from streaking. 

I run at 350psi with neutralizer.  Unless I use the rotovac, then its 200psi.

streaking??? why would they streak? something must be wrong?

I USE AN INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH DETERGENT.  NO OTHER COMPANIES IN MY AREA USE THE SAME DETERGENT AS I DO....VERY COSTLY

changing the subject.....

Does anybody have any good recomendations for a tile and grout cleaning solution?  I have a hydro-force SX12 hard floor cleaner and I have been using this product called Quake by hydramster.  It does a good job on white grout, but the darker colored grout (ex. light gray) sometimes streaks or blotches.  I just started doing tile&grout and it seems to have a potentially successful future.  However when i took a market trend in the Cleveland area, every company seems to be charging drastically different prices from one another...Hence the fact it is somewhat of a new thing.   What do you guys charge for tile sq/ft?  What do  you recomend as a cleaner?  Sealer?      

Also how is your tile and grout setup?     I just prespray, let it sit 5 minutes, scrub the grout with the grout brush, then go over it with the hydroforce sx12.  Any input would be great. 

Thanks

Mike

maybe it's the glide?

different strokes for different folks...

I don't get what you mean by streaking...

the spray tips are dripping???

it doesn't clean well and leaves streaks???

so if you trigger on the forward stroke... I guess you dry vac back down?

I don't know , I've just done it that way so long I've gotten use to it.

jets sound gone.... have you been cleaning them out with a pin

Yup they are overlapping, Nope haven't been cleaning them with a pin. 

 They must be gone. 

I guess it's another one of those actions unincumbered by the thought process.