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Dwell Time

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splash_$$$_dash View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06/September/2004 at 3:29pm

what's the average dwell time for the pre-spray you are using?

or what  is the range you use? minimum to maximum dwell time?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote surroundings Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/September/2004 at 3:56pm
I think that this would be specific to the product, wouldn't it?  My dwell time for my mainstay product is recommended 15 minutes, but there is no 'maximum' except "Do Not Allow Product To Dry On Carpet"

-Allen

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Superglide Ken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/September/2004 at 4:32pm

Dwell time is dependant on two factors. The first is how long the chemical needs to contact the soils to emulsify them properly. That is usually 15 to 20 minutes. The second factor is the evaporation rate which is fairly constant for all water based liquids at a given humidity level and tempurature. Since in a home cleaning enviroment that is fairly constant too, make sure you clean all areas treated within a 20 to 30 minute window for optimum results.

 

 

Ken

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/September/2004 at 7:47pm
Other things to keep in mind is. Is the pre spray heated.  Is the soiling heavey enough more than one application will be necessary.  Will it be necessary to use your groomer to agitate the pre spray to increase it's effectivness.  In some instances like in front of furniture or bad traffic  areas I pre treat agitate and clean.  Then reapply pre spray go about cleaning the rest of the area while your not wasteing time waiting for the prespray.  That usually works for us. Sort of cleaning in and out on the heavily soiled areas.Guitar
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Superglide Ken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06/September/2004 at 8:43pm

Excellant point on the pre-heat point Doug. Do you know for instance that a hot pre-spray and a cold rinse will clean carpet better than a cold pre-spray and boiling hot water? It is true, and I have tested it both ways to prove that point. Cold is a relative term BTW; in both tests the "cold " water was still around 100 degrees faranhiet. The prespray put down hot really speeds up the emulsication process. Once that is acheived, only warm water is required to remove it from the carpet. That is the main reason the inline sprayer is your freind if you use a TM. If you use a portable, an electric sprayer with very hot solution put down by a .05 jet in a 65 degree pattern serves the same purpose.

 

 

 

Ken



Edited by Superglide Ken
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MR. STEAMER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/September/2004 at 7:28am
Originally posted by doug doug wrote:

Other things to keep in mind is. Is the pre spray heated.  Is the soiling heavey enough more than one application will be necessary.  Will it be necessary to use your groomer to agitate the pre spray to increase it's effectivness.  In some instances like in front of furniture or bad traffic  areas I pre treat agitate and clean.  Then reapply pre spray go about cleaning the rest of the area while your not wasteing time waiting for the prespray.  That usually works for us. Sort of cleaning in and out on the heavily soiled areas.Guitar
I agree with everything... except I wont pre-spray twice and re clean it leaves the carpet too wet... in the area that you do twice.  but thats just me.  I believe it's the best it's going to get with one application.  I may use some terry cloths in that hi-traffic area to help pull out more soiling before I clean it though
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/September/2004 at 7:31am
Mr. Steamer:  Thats where we differ.  We take the time to do it right.  Your one pass is what you see is what you get.Guitar
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MR. STEAMER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/September/2004 at 7:35am

but doug most times the second pass doesn't make it any better... maybe if you tried to absorb some of the soiling you'd get the same results..

The areas you are talking about are most likely discolored from the amount of soiling... am I right??

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/September/2004 at 7:45am
Mr. Steamer:  The maintaince of the carpet the amount of traffic dictates to uu weather a second pass is necessary. sometime two light passes is better than one heavey one.  I do not believe in all circumstances one pass is sufficient.Guitar
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MR. STEAMER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/September/2004 at 8:17am

but sometimes two passes only makes the carpet more wet... and a higher risk of browning... or wraping or strecthing... with no great improvement on results.....

What your say is for example...  The instructions calls for you to use two onces of cleaning detergent in your hydroforce, but you decided to use four onces.  You get best results with two onces four isn't going to make it any better....

I think two passes will work if the second pass is done after the carpet has totally dryed a day later.

we all do second passes, but it really just for peace of mind.  I do it too.. I won't reconnect my hydro force...I'll spray the area again with my spot bottle that I always keep hooked to my side

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote surroundings Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/September/2004 at 12:04am
But before you do your second 'wet' pass, you'll do a couple of dry passes, right?  Browning isn't an issue if you leve the carpets slightly acidic, but yes, stretching/warping could become a problem if you drop too much water.

(I can hear Superglide Ken inserting a comment about now!)

I too, tend to respray with the spotter hooked onto my belt loop in these circumstances.

Also good is using a white cotton bonnet after you HWE over the traffic areas. This is good when you have mud & sand traffic lanes.   When I first started doing this, I was surprised at the amount of soil transfered.  Mr. Steamer, you mentioned terry cloths for something like this? 

Sometimes, after a slow vac with powerhead, and HWE using the RX, I find that sand has worked it's way up to the surface when they have a sand pit for the kiddies, or live near the beach or just have sandy soil around the home.  The carpet is clean.... heck, even the sand is clean, but now I need to grab that sand out.  One more dry pass.

-Allen
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Suction Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/September/2004 at 8:22am
Wow Allen ... you sure do a lot.  It must take you a day and a half to complete one carpet???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Superglide Ken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/September/2004 at 11:10am
Thorough, thats for sure. Just make sure you charge for it to make it worth your while. Doing the best job for the lowest pay takes the fun out of working.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote surroundings Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08/September/2004 at 1:09pm
Originally posted by Suction Suction wrote:

It must take you a day and a half to complete one carpet???


If it sounds like a lot, it's only the amount required to do the job. 

This post was specifically because I had just finished a muddy, sandy carpet on a transportable home located on a horse astigment not far away.  The respray was just on the entry points, not the whole thing.  The sand was concentrated on the traffic lanes, so that area got the treatment needed. Pre-vac on this job took a bit, but there was no need to rake the carpet after as it was a short loop pile in pretty good condition, and as it was an empty caretaker's flat, there was no furniture to move or place plastic do-dads underneath. 

Post bonnetting the traffic lanes took about 15 minutes for 3 bedrooms and the living room, so that's no big deal.  At the end of the day, I get my $4.50 per square metre.  4 small rooms, 2 hours, $200.

Then I was able to quote on the main house.  If they accept, it'll be worth about $900 to me. 

-Allen


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